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12,1月号2025.10.31発売

今こそ知りたい!千利休の『茶』と『美』

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Gourmet
2016.05.13

京都の豆腐屋4選。観光するなら必見、絶品豆腐を購入できる名店は?

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Tofu is made in various parts of Japan, but it is Kyoto's tofu that attracts many people. Although it has been eaten at courts and temples since ancient times, the old cotton tofu was very hard unlike the present one, but the tofu shop "Morika" in Sagano (Sagano) Since “Kototofu” was developed, “soft and smooth” has become a common image in Kyoto. Here are 4 of the best shops in Kyoto where you can taste the taste of soy.

Kyoto's 4 best-known Tofu restaurants

Tofu Morika

A long-established store named "Kototofu Morika", which appeared in novels by Kawabata Yasunari and Shiba Ryotaro and is used in Tenryu-ji Temple and other Zen temples and restaurants. Cotton tofu is known for its softness, which is said to be "steaming in a bowl."

Four Tofu-ya Famous Stores in Kyoto! What is the secret of the taste brought up in the famous water?

In general, cotton tofu is hard and silky texture is soft, while sweetened tofu is smooth and the flavor of soybeans is firmly felt. It became a great reputation with a revolutionary texture that renewed the image of tofu.

Looking up at a store adjacent to the ancient shrine of Chino and Kiyosu Temple, you can see the factory in the back of the sales corner. In the middle of making tofu. The sweetness of soy milk is so sweet.

Four Tofu-ya Famous Stores in Kyoto! What is the secret of the taste brought up in the famous water? At the “Tofu Morika” factory, you can watch the morning when many craftsmen are devoted to making tofu silently while using tools that have been passed down from the old days.

Founded during the Ansei year, “Sakai Tofu” was created in the 4th century after the war. The secret of smooth and delicious tofu is in the coagulant used to harden soy milk.

Generally speaking, Nigari (magnesium chloride) is famous as a coagulant, but sweet potato flour (calcium sulfate) is used for the tofu. Nigari hardens soy protein only, while sweet potato powder hardens soy protein and water together, so it looks fresh and soft, and it does not damage the smell and sweetness of soy.

Four Tofu-ya Famous Stores in Kyoto! What is the secret of the taste brought up in the famous water? Boil the soybeans ground with a mortar, transfer the soy milk to a wooden mallet, place a weight on it, and cut with a knife. There are some parts that are mechanized, but basically they are almost handmade.

The fourth generation named cotton tofu hardened with sweet potato flour as sweet potato tofu. It is said that she was initially said to be "in the bag" because it was too soft. The texture and taste of the food eventually came to the fore, and it was noted for having appeared in Kawabata's novel "Koto", and is now one of Kyoto's leading stores.

If you try to make a tofu with the size of a common tofu, it's smooth and it has a sweetness of soybeans, but its aftertaste is clear! Of course, cold tofu seems to go well with cold tofu.

Four Tofu-ya Famous Stores in Kyoto! What is the secret of the taste brought up in the famous water? Summer-limited "Kinu-gushi" has a smoother texture than Kaki-tofu, and since it contains grated blue yuzu skin, its aroma is also exceptional.

While preserving the original taste and manufacturing method, "Sho Tofu" of "Morika" that keeps maintaining the "town of Tofu Store" likeness is a refreshingly pure taste.

◆ Saki Tofu Morika (Sadofumori)
Address No. 42, Shakubudo Tonogicho, Ukyo-ku, Kyoto
Official site

Toyoke Chaya

There was always one tofu shop in the town, but it has been reduced for some time, and opportunities for obtaining delicious tofu have decreased. In that respect, the fact that there are a lot of “tofu shops in the town” remaining in Kyoto can only be said to say.

"Toyokeya Yamamoto" in Monzen-cho, Nishijin of Kitano Tenman-gu, which once flourished the textile industry and returned to Japan's oldest flower street, Kamishiken, has long been loved by the local community It is one of the tofu shops.

Four Tofu-ya Famous Stores in Kyoto! What is the secret of the taste brought up in the famous water? The name "Toyoke" comes from "Toyokebi no Kami", the god of Ise Jingu Outer Shrine and the god of food.

Founded in 1897, the current third generation of the tofu shop has been actively introducing new technologies while exploring the original taste of tofu, and is introducing a new style to Kyoto's tofu.

We drill a well in the site to get better water. We use pure well water and change the temperature and time depending on the production area of soybean to bring out the best taste and pursue tofu in which the flavor of soybean can be felt firmly.

Water is used not only for ground water but also for tap water that passes through a water purifier depending on the process to achieve weak alkalinity that is optimal for tofu, and for soybeans, the best method is selected because the taste changes depending on the power, temperature, and pot shape. . Depending on the product, coagulants are also used separately, such as simmering agent and sweet potato powder, making full use of the craftsmanship, more than 15 types of tofu alone, and 30 types of products such as fried fish, yuba and sweets.

Four Tofu-ya Famous Stores in Kyoto! What is the secret of the taste brought up in the famous water? A cold-fried bean of "silk silken tofu" in the popular menu "Samurai".

When such efforts came to fruition and became famous all over the country, the tofu and freshly made tofu triggered by being asked by a faraway customer "Can you eat here?" Imagine a store serving tofu dishes that have been passed down, and opened "Toyoke Chaya".

If you visit "Toyooke Chaya", it is a location that you can't hope, right in front of the large stone torii of Kitano Tenman-gu. There is a business only for lunchtime, and there is always a procession of people who have visited for tofu dishes before the shop.

When I ordered a guy who made the cold guy the main thing that first appeared in a small bowl, "Oboro Tofu". This is the first stage of mixing nigiri with soy milk, putting it in a box and hardening it, also called tofu. In particular, freshly made sweet potato tofu is a gem that can only be tasted by people who are engaged in making tofu, and the sweetness and smell of soybeans are full. The ability to meet such tastes is a unique attraction of a tofu store.

Four Tofu-ya Famous Stores in Kyoto! What is the secret of the taste brought up in the famous water? Round shape of tofu is limited to summer "spicy tofu". In the tofu, there is a pomegranate wrapped in nori, and when it is mixed while eating it, it tastes just like an adult.

A cold bean using "Nigori silken tofu", which the third generation has researched for the best taste and texture, the flavor of soybean remains after softness, and the depth of the tofu taste can not be felt did.

◆ Toyoke Chaya Address Imadegawa Dorimae Nishi-Ichikawa-cho, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto City 822
Official site

Hirano Tofu

At the center of Kyoto, there is a street called Ashiyacho, which used to be lined with shops specializing in tofu, tofu and yuba. The Hirano Tofu Store, founded in the Meiji period, is one of the stores that continues to preserve the taste of the Tofu Store in the town.

The tofu made by the first generation was liked by Kita Oji Sasayamato (toast) and the second generation of tofu by Shirashiro Jiro (Sarasu Jiro). It is also used in many restaurants, including Hiiragiya, Tawaya Ryokan and Sumiya Ryokan.

Four Tofu-ya Famous Stores in Kyoto! What is the secret of the taste brought up in the famous water? If there is no pot or bowl, and it takes a long time to carry, the package will be like the picture.

The reason why they are used by so many famous shops is that they do not rely on machines today, and have left the taste of traditional tofu by hand making it from scratch. It is thoroughly to use "Tofu-no-yu", which is a confectioner's decoction made of cotton, as a substitute for detergent, and the old-fashioned style is maintained throughout.

The tofu made in the traditional way of using soy milk ground from a depth of more than 50m and soy beans carefully selected with each season, with a bitter gourd, has a subtle sweetness difference depending on the amount of bitterness and the timing of addition That is exactly what craftsmanship is.

Four Tofu-ya Famous Stores in Kyoto! What is the secret of the taste brought up in the famous water? Basic cotton tofu "white tofu" is carefully made.

The tofu made with such a natural manufacturing method is not so sun-dried, and it seems that the sweetness gradually decreases from the time when it is finished and soaked in water, and the storekeeper says "Tofu is a raw green."

In order to provide such tofu responsibly, store openings in department stores continue to make a decision, and it is only this store that can be purchased. You can see that the deliciousness of Kyoto's tofu is protected by such craftsmanship.

In the past, small shops with a pleasant temperament are filled with the smell of soy and deep-fried foods, and people, cooks and foreign customers who come to buy with pots and bowls are endless. I was reminded of how thankful the existence of "a tofu shop in the town", and Kyoto has become jealous.

Four Tofu-ya Famous Stores in Kyoto! What is the secret of the taste brought up in the famous water? From July to August, we sell "Kinjoshi tofu", a limited edition product using bittern and agar, which is perfect for cold-blooded men.

◆ Hirano Tofu Address 289 Chukyo-ku, Kyoto, Anyukoji Dokiyacho 289

Good luck

Counter chopsticks "Kiyuki" is located in Nishi-Kiya-cho, near Kamogawa. A woman who inherited from the father a well-known store that was once passed by Takeshi Kaitaka, from the style of putting out three types of sticks out of blue soy bean soup with tofu, and cooked with tofu, and tofu (nuta) Inherit from predecessor.

Four Tofu-ya Famous Stores in Kyoto! What is the secret of the taste brought up in the famous water?

Especially, the tofu, which has a reputation for being excellent, is the "grilled tofu with blue soybeans" of the well-established "Kamo Tofu Kinki", which is famous for being adjacent to it. It is said that the pot is specially bought and served since it is a relative.

When I have green tofu, the fresh sweetness spreads in my mouth, which is unique to blue soybeans, and it's a truly unique gem. I was already familiar with the story that some people would be satisfied with only the three items that came out of the boat and the boat.

Four Tofu-ya Famous Stores in Kyoto! What is the secret of the taste brought up in the famous water? The top of the photo shows the “Soybean Soy Sauce Tofu”. At the back is "Teppei" and "Okara no I cooked" from the right. "Deep-fried tofu with blue soybeans" is also shaped like jade.

And after all, I can not go home without eating this famous fish meal.

During this season, many river fish, including salmon, are swimming in the water tank at the back of the counter. All of these river fishes were caught by the female general in the Yodogawa river. It's a refreshingly fresh, unique smell, there's no such thing as a taste of the river fish of the Yodogawa that you can only taste here, and you're going to go for the sake and sake! You can feel comfortable with the delicious tofu and sake lees.

Four Tofu-ya Famous Stores in Kyoto! What is the secret of the taste brought up in the famous water? A regular customer's colored paper on which a certain word is written.

◆ Kiyuki
Address 202 Nishitoya-machi, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto City

-Shooting / Hiroaki Kuwahara-