The Birthplace of Kitsune Udon! Osaka’s Usami-tei Matsubaya (うさみ亭マツバヤ) 【Everyone’s Favourite ‘O-age-san’ 3】

Tofu was introduced from China, and the practice of eating abura-age (油揚げ; deep-fried tofu) in Japan began around the Muromachi period. It is said that it first appeared on the dining tables of commoners during the mid-Edo period. With a longer shelf life and higher nutritional value than tofu (豆腐), abura-age remains an essential part of daily side dishes. While there are no specific defining characteristics of Osaka's abura-age, Kitsune Udon (Udon topped with slices of sweet abura-age) was born in this merchant city where the food culture of the common people flourished. The pioneer of this dish, Usami-tei Matsubaya (うさみ亭マツバヤ), still enjoys an impeccable reputation for its flavour today!

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Kitsune Udon Was Born in This Shop! Usami-tei Matsubaya (Semba)

The Semba (船場) district where the shop is located has always been the heart of the Osaka economy. The first-generation owner, Usami Yotaro (宇佐美要太郎), opened his own business as an udon shop in 1893 after apprenticing at a sushi restaurant.

The story goes that when he served leftover abura-age from inari-zushi (vinegared rice in fried tofu pouches) as a side dish with su-udon (plain noodles in broth), he saw customers placing the tofu on top of the noodles. This became the inspiration for the birth of Kitsune Udon.

As for the star of the show, the abura-age, the third-generation owner Usami Yoshihiro (宇佐美芳宏) says, “We have high-quality goods delivered from a tofu shop within Osaka city.” They meticulously remove the excess oil and spend three days allowing the tofu to absorb the flavours of the seasoning.

“I owe my good health to udon”

Third-generation owner Usami Yoshihiro, still active at 79!

Complementing the abura-age is a broth made with high-quality ingredients like Rishiri (利尻) kelp, Katsuo Honkarebushi (鰹本枯節; dried bonito flakes), and Saba (鯖; mackerel) flakes, paired with homemade noodles. The broth seeps beautifully into the round, supple noodles, creating a perfect harmony within the bowl. The saltiness of the toasted kamaboko fish cakes served alongside the pleasantly sweet o-age-san is also a perfect match. It is a deeply satisfying bowl, truly the taste of a long-established establishment.

The Pride of the Shop: O-age Infused with Flavour Over Three Days

Left: The criteria for their abura-age are a fluffy texture and a substantial interior. The large size, which almost overflows from the bowl, is a delight. Right: During the preparation on the third and final day, the previous batch’s broth is added to give the flavour a rounded depth.

This Is the Famous Kitsune Udon!

Kitsune Udon 650 yen. The price is kept reasonable for the businessmen who visit almost daily. “I think I’m doing my best to hold the line on prices,” says Mr Usami.

Right: The shop enshrines an amulet from Fushimi Inari-taisha in Kyoto, affectionately known as ‘O-inari-san of Fushimi (伏見のおいなりさん)’. O-inari-san is the deity of business prosperity. It makes sense that ‘Kitsune Udon’—considered auspicious—gained such popularity in the merchant district of Semba.

Usami-tei Matsubaya (うさみ亭マツバヤ)

Address: 3-8-1 Minamisemba, Chuo-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka
Phone: 06-6251-3339
Opening hours: 11:00–18:00
Closed: Sundays and Public Holidays

*This article is a reprint from the magazine Waraku (和樂) (February/March 2025 issue). *All listed prices include tax.
*Prices and opening hours are current as of November 2025 and are subject to change. Please check the official website or other sources in advance.

This article is translated from https://intojapanwaraku.com/travel/289329/

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