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12,1月号2025.10.31発売

今こそ知りたい!千利休の『茶』と『美』

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Culture

2025.08.23

Wagashi Wonders: Where Delicate Craft Meets the Changing Seasons [Kyoto handcrafts column]

Capturing the changing seasons, and the patterns and stories beloved by the people of Kyoto, through taste, colour, and form – this is wagashi (和菓子, traditional Japanese confections), a small yet exquisite crystallization of aesthetic sensibility that fits in the palm of your hand. When it comes to ‘Kyoto handcrafts,’ wagashi is an absolute must. The seasonal charm of spring wagashi, in particular, is exceptionally vibrant! Among Kyoto's confectioners, who vie to create elegant sweets, we've gathered some beautiful spring wagashi from renowned shops specialising in higashi (干菓子, dry confectionery) and omogashi (主菓子, main confectionery).

Their graceful and exquisite forms are nothing short of ‘Masterful craftsmanship’!

Exquisite dry confections from Kamehiroyasu, expressing a seasonal charm through meticulous artistry

Kamehiroyasu (亀廣保), a specialist in higashi, was founded in Muromachi-Nijo (室町二条) in 1915, having branched off from the long-established Kame Suehiro (亀末廣). Upon entering the shop, a small display case sits within a raised tatami area.

Seasonal higashi are lined up, available for purchase individually, but we recommend the small box (from ¥1,700) filled with about 10 varieties of seasonal colours. Their aruheito (有平糖, a type of hard candy) in particular, is highly acclaimed for its beautiful shapes, colours, and wide variety.

The decisive factors are skill and colour expression: Aruheito (flowing water, horsetail, dandelion, milk vetch, violet, iris, maple seed). Uchimono (打物; raft, green maple leaf, Kanze-mizu (観世水) water pattern) made by pressing wasanbon (和三盆) sugar or kanbaiko (寒梅粉; refined rice flour) mixed with sugar into wooden moulds. Kizatou (生砂糖, petals, leaves) made by cutting shapes from a dough of sugar mixed with kanbaiko. Katakuri (片栗; cherry blossom, butterfly) made by cutting shapes from a dough of grated Chinese yam and sugar mixed with sugar. Individual pieces from ¥120. All available from March to May.

“Higashi such as oshimono (押物), uchimono (打物), and aruheito (有平糖) are indispensable wagashi for tea, not just as snacks, but especially in tea ceremonies,” says Kusano Masao (草野方夫), the 4th generation proprietor. “We are particular about the transparency of colours and the details of the craftsmanship, pouring our ingenuity and skill into the colour expression and intricate designs. We hope you can feel the seasons through the colours and designs, and enjoy them not only with your taste buds but also with your eyes.”

Kamehiroyasu Shop Information

Reading: Kamehiroyasu
Address: 288 Takoyakushicho, Muromachi-dori Nijo-sagaru, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto City
Phone: 075-231-6737
Opening hours: 9:00 – 17:00
Closed: Sundays and national holidays
Official website:http://kamehiroyasu.com/

The epitome of Kyoto-style wagashi! Suetomi’s elegant omogashi, full of beauty and playfulness

Meanwhile, Suetomi (末富), established in 1893, is a renowned Kyogashi (Kyoto-style wagashi) shop, serving temples and shrines, particularly Higashi Honganji (東本願寺), and tea ceremony grand masters. Among their offerings, the kinton, which expresses the ever-changing colours of the four seasons in breathtakingly beautiful gradations, has an undeniable presence! Every omogashi from Suetomi, crafted by skilled artisans, with its delicate taste and texture, can be called miniature pieces of artwork.

“The elegant colour combinations of layered robes worn by court ladies in the Heian period were called ‘kasane no irome (色目),’ and this has been incorporated into the vibrant colour palette of Kyogashi,” says Yamaguchi Shoji (山口祥二), the 4th generation proprietor. “It refers to the colours seen from both the front and back of nature’s beauty, expressing the seasons subtly through colour schemes and shades. Furthermore, some Kyogashi, like the May omogashi ‘Karagoromo (唐衣),’ directly incorporate the wit of famous poems from ‘The Tales of Ise’ into the confectionery, giving them evocative names. We would be delighted if you could also savour the sentiments and playfulness imbued in these sweets.”

From top: Kinton ‘Miyako no Haru (都の春)’, expressing cherry blossoms with pink and green, ¥540. ‘Sakura’ , a soft, moist joyo (薯蕷) dough with strained bean paste filling, ¥540. ‘Karagoromo (唐衣)’, ¥594, which wraps coarse bean paste in gyuhi (求肥), depicts irises using origami techniques. ‘Hana Rasen (花らせん)’, ¥572, made from konashi, a unique Kyogashi dough created by mixing strained bean paste with weak flour, steaming, and kneading. Only ‘Karagoromo’ is sold in May, others in April.

Kyoto’s wagashi embody the Japanese people’s long-cherished appreciation for the seasons and the delicate handcrafts that have been passed down through generations.

Suetomi Shop Information

Reading: Suetomi
Address: Higashi-iru, Muromachi-dori Matsubara, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto City
Phone: 075-351-0808
Opening hours: 9:00 – 17:00
Closed: Sundays and national holidays
Official website:https://www.kyoto-suetomi.com/

*This article is reprinted from the magazine ‘WARAKU’ (April/May 2024 issue).
*All prices listed are inclusive of tax. Featured products may be sold out or their sales period may have ended. Prices and opening hours are also subject to change, so please check official websites before visiting

This article is translated from https://intojapanwaraku.com/craftsmanship/243924/

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最新号紹介

12,1月号2025.10.31発売

今こそ知りたい!千利休の『茶』と『美』

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