Culture

2026.05.29

Luxurious Dashi Oden, Exquisite Winter Catch, Paired with Perfect Drink: An Evening at Miyuki [‘Kanazawa Oden: Old and New Famous Shops Part 1’]

In fact, Kanazawa boasts the highest number of oden restaurants per capita in all of Japan. There are numerous specialist eateries open year-round, with some having been in business for over half a century. Blessed with the bounties of both the sea and the mountains, and offering an abundance of local sake, "enjoying a drink over oden" is simply a part of everyday life in Kanazawa. While the oden boom has only accelerated since the opening of the Hokuriku Shinkansen, the true depth of the city's oden culture is not something you can fully grasp after just one visit. Therefore, we have carefully selected four highly sought-after oden shops in Kanazawa that you simply must try, where locals and visitors mingle in perfect harmony. Weekdays are certainly easier for securing a table compared to the weekend, but visiting later in the evening (for your second stop or beyond) is actually a surprisingly well-kept secret!

Savouring Signature Dashi and Local Fish Dishes at Miyuki Saigawaten (三幸 犀川店)

Miyuki was opened in 1967 by Kakegami Tomiko. She introduced signature dishes such as Miyuki age (三幸あげ)—where the minced fish is deep-fried only after an order is placed—and Teppan-Grilled Tororo Yam (とろろの鉄板焼), thereby establishing an entirely new dining genre of “oden alongside a la carte dishes”.
Eventually, Tomiko entrusted the main restaurant to her son, Tsutomu, whilst supporting her daughter, Harumi, in opening the Saigawaten (犀川店) branch, working together to ensure the restaurant’s resounding success.

The restaurant’s true draw is its unique dashi broth, which evolved to be distinct even from the previous generation’s recipe.
In Kanazawa, a perfectly clear oden dashi is the standard. However, while Miyuki’s broth shares that same golden hue, its umami profile is exceptionally rich and refined. “We are incredibly generous with the ingredients for our dashi, and we are particularly mindful of bringing out a gentle sweetness. Many places in Kanazawa rely solely on a salty flavour profile, but the locals here actually prefer a touch of sweetness,” explains Harumi.

The fish dishes, hand-picked by a head chef who spent many years working at the fish market, are also incredibly popular.
Four to six fresh items are added to the menu daily; at this time of year, it is all about the kanburi (寒鰤)! It is also a real delight that premium fish like nodoguro are so wonderfully accessible at this establishment.

The Exact Dashi Recipe is a Closely Guarded Secret. The Chawanmushi Made from the crab trimmings used in Kani-men is also Absolute Perfection!

Left / They offer around 30 different oden ingredients, starting at 165 yen each. You can start making reservations for the Kanimen from summer each year. Right / The chawanmushi served in the shell of a Koubako crab (香箱入り茶碗蒸し), priced at 660 yen, is a brilliant by-product of the Kanimen. It extravagantly blends the remaining uchiko (内子) and sotoko (外子) roe, along with rich crab stock, into the savoury egg custard. This is served until early spring, and booking in advance is highly recommended.

The Perfect Closing Dish! Oden Ramen

Oden Ramen (おでんラーメン), 660 yen. Fresh, thin noodles pair beautifully with the refined oden dashi. It comes with beef tendon and an egg.

Left / The restaurant is located in the bustling entertainment district of Katamachi (片町). There are 6 counter seats and 20 seats in the raised koagari (小上がり) area. Right / “The name of our shop comes from the hope that our guests might experience about three pieces of happiness… like having a drink with their oden,” (Kakegami).

Miyuki Saigawaten Restaurant Info

Miyuki Saigawaten
Address: 1-9-8 Katamachi, Kanazawa City, Ishikawa Prefecture
Telephone: 076-262-1332
Opening Hours: 6:00 pm – 10:30 pm (Last Orders) *The serving of oden ends when the day’s prepared ingredients are sold out.
Closed: Sundays and Public Holidays *Reservations required

Photography: Miyahama Yumiko / Composition: Fujita Yu
*This article is reprinted from the magazine ‘Waraku‘ (和樂) (February/March 2024 issue).
*All displayed prices are inclusive of tax. Prices and opening hours may be subject to change. Please confirm before your visit.

This article is translated from https://intojapanwaraku.com/travel/258083/

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