Travel

2026.02.21

Handmade, Hand-Fried Excellence from the Century-Old Kyoto Tofu Shop: Nanzenji Tofuya Hattori Everyone’s beloved “Oage-san,” Part 6

With a longer shelf life and higher nutritional value than tofu, abura-age (油揚げ; deep-fried tofu) is a common ingredient in Japanese household dishes. When speaking of abura-age in Kyoto, it refers to the thick, large, hand-fried variety that is now famous nationwide. The shop 'Hattori (服部)' stands out as a representative of this craft.

Handmade and Hand-Fried to Perfection: The Delicious Tofu of Nanzenji Tofuya Hattori (Kurotani-cho)

Founded in 1910, this shop specialises in tofu and abura-age. After being approached by supermarket buyers who had heard of their reputation, the third-generation owner (the previous head) shifted the shop’s policy. While expanding from a local town tofu shop to a scale that sells in cities across the country, “We limit production to a volume that can still be managed by human hands,” says Nishijima Hiroshi (西島寛), the Sales Manager and husband of the fourth-generation owner.

Large, thick, and with edges that puff up—this is the traditional Kyoto-style abura-age.
While simmered abura-age with vegetables is a staple of home cooking, the real delight comes when the flavorful broth seeps from the puffed edges, making each bite even more satisfying.

“We don’t make them perfectly uniform. This unevenness is the history of Kyoto’s food culture that evolved abura-age into something highly satisfying, and it is the essence of handmade fried tofu.” According to Mr Nishijima, the true flavour of abura-age shines through when it is toasted. He wants customers to first experience the aroma of the soybeans and rice oil.

“The deep flavour of soybeans is our pride!”

Left: The abura-age base. They all look the same, but once placed in the oil, each expands differently. It takes great skill to ensure they all become high-quality products. Right: The base is first placed in a low-temperature oil layer. A ladle plays a vital role in shaping the tofu—pouring oil over it or flattening it with the bottom of the ladle.

Lifting the expanded dough from the oil. Judging the timing is difficult.

Left: The bases are fried in two stages: low temperature and high temperature. This shows them being fried at a high temperature. “If you pull them out even a moment too early, they will shrink. The trick is not to rush once they are in the high-temperature layer,” says Hashimoto Joji, who is in charge of the frying station. Right: The products are shipped after cooling overnight, allowing the texture to settle and become moist. Abura-age (Large) 280 yen per piece.

Mr Nishijima Hiroshi, inheriting the taste and tradition of the neighborhood tofu shop

Nanzenji Tofuya Hattori (南禅寺豆腐屋 服部)

Address: 3 Kurodani-cho, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto
Phone: 075-771-0114
Opening hours: 8:00–16:00
Closed: Wednesdays
Official Website: https://nanzenjitofu.jp/
Also available via their online shop.

*This article is a reprint from the magazine Waraku (和樂) (February/March 2025 issue). All listed prices include tax. Prices and opening hours are current as of November 2025 and are subject to change; please check the official website in advance.

This article is translated from https://intojapanwaraku.com/travel/289363/

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