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12,1月号2025.10.31発売

今こそ知りたい!千利休の『茶』と『美』

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Gourmet
2019.08.20

なめらかさの秘密は?「ザ・リッツ・カールトン東京」のヴィシソワーズレシピ

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Smooth touch to cool summer day

Summer's Cold Vichyssoise-Now a normal menu, but when it was born in New York in 1917, its coldness should have been groundbreaking. The Ritz Carlton Tokyo, Roppongi, Tokyo, has become a menu that is standard for summer. I was taught the secret of its smoothness.
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Potato and polo onions, rustic materials are fashionable

There is a town called Vichy in the middle of France. It is a place known as a spa town since Roman times. In France, drinking fountains are one of the medical treatment facilities, and there are faucets from which hot spring water comes out from somewhere in the town, and there is a relaxing hot spring atmosphere.

Around here, a hot soup called Potage Parmantier made with potato and polo onion is made, but it is said that it is cold and made with vichyssoise.

Vichyssoise means Vichy-like. The designer of the French countryside of Potage has been made by the cityie for a stylish meal that is a cook called Louis Dia. He was a chef at the Ritz Carlton Hotel in New York, which continues to be loved by celebrities. When I was a kid, I was inspired by the summer potage that I put in milk and ate, and I named it after my hometown.
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"Please use potatoes with potatoes" is the first person of Mr. Yasunobu Ashida, Deputy Chef of "The Ritz-Carlton Tokyo Towers Grill". Because I want to finish in a smooth, smooth condition, it is important to choose how to choose potatoes first. If you have a potato that is finished with heat, it will tend to be rough.

"Because the make-in is sticky, it finishes well. Also, this dish is important for whiteness. Please pay attention to the heat so that it will not burn when licking vegetables with butter. Indeed, the whiteness is also cool" That's it. Potato and polo green onion, puree mixed with onion is beige, but when we put milk and fresh cream, it becomes white light that is suitable for summer.
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How to make is relatively simple because it is puree of boiled potatoes and put together with creams. However, without a French dish strainer called Chinowa, it will not be like a professional finish. Chinowa has eyes that look like herringbone, and double netting, which makes the puree very smooth. This effort will upgrade rustic home cooking to a sophisticated dish.

Let's make a vichyssoise

1. Slice vegetables

Cut potatoes, prawns and onions. Potatoes use sticky make-ins. Peel and cut to a thickness of about 5 mm. Cut polo onions in half, wash and slice. There may be soil between the leaves, so cut in half and wash. Cut the onion in half and slice at right angles to the fiber.

2. Fry vegetables

Put butter in a thick pot at the bottom, melt over medium heat, and carefully stir in vegetables. Stir fry from hard polo onions. Add butter and stir onion if it turns around. When the onion has enough heat, put the potato at the end and stir fry it with salt. Since it is easy to burn onions and potatoes, be careful not to burn them.

3. Add chicken stock and simmer gently

When the potatoes are clear, add chicken stock. The restaurant will use chicken ginseng, but at home you may use granular chicken consommé. Boil it over low heat for about 15 to 20 minutes, until it is soft enough that the bamboo shoots are in the potato. When the potatoes are tender, turn off the fire and cool to room temperature.
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4. Put all the vegetables in the mixer

Put the softened vegetables together with the soup into the mixer. You can turn on and off several times while watching the inside, and turn it little by little until the whole is smooth.
You can use a hand mixer to make it in the pan, but it may not be as smooth as the mixer, and it takes time to filter.

5. Chill with ice water

What was put into the mixer is further filtered with Shinowa. Since the Chinowa is fine-grained, it can not be filtered just by pouring it in, so it is good to push it with a ladle (Otama) from the top. 800g will be about 700g if it is filtered with a Shinowa. Put this in a bowl, float in a large bowl of ice water and cool. You may chill in the refrigerator.

6. Mix with fresh cream

When the five cool enough, add cold milk and fresh cream, adjust the taste with salt and white pepper, and mix to avoid unevenness. When putting in a spatula etc. and lifting it, it will feel good if it has a viscosity that causes it to drip and simmer. If it seems to be broken, the viscosity is not enough. Serve in a bowl and place a chopped sieve in the center.
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The Secrets of "The Ritz Carlton Tokyo"

Now that the feeling of season is gradually disappearing, at least it feels like to feel the season from the dining table. Mr. Yasunobu Shibata taught me the ingredients for six people this summer, for those who want to make Vishiseurs.
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400g of make-up, 85g of polo onion, 100g of onion, 25g of butter, 600ml of chicken stock (chicken stock), 4g of salt, 300ml of milk, 300ml of milk fat, 300ml of white cream, an appropriate amount of white pepper, and a suitable amount of shiblet.
"I think chicken stock is good for homes with 600ml of water and 6g of granules of chicken consommé. Polo green onions can also be substituted in long green onions. Is also possible, "said Mr. Shibata. Whether you want a friendly family style or aim for a full-fledged hotel taste, that's your favorite.

The attraction of Vichyssoise is its silky smooth texture and coldness. The first thing I want to care about is to use potatoes made of the make-in type that Mr. Shibata recommends, but I also want to spend time preparing the vegetables with a lot of fiber. Every task a professional is doing is aiming for smoothness.

I want to cut vegetable fiber as finely as possible, so cut the onion in half and slice it at right angles to the fiber. Cut polo green onions in half and wash in water, take soil and take thin slices. Peel the potatoes and cut them to about 5 mm.

Stir in vegetables with butter and season with salt. First of all, from a hard polo onion, stir fry over medium heat so as not to burn. Be careful not to burn it, as it will not only lose its flavor but also affect the whiteness of the finish. Add the sliced onion and fry it further. The onions are sweet and easy to burn, so keep mixing with the everlasting wood chisel. Add potatoes here, stir fry to make it clear, add chicken stock and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes.

Stop the fire when the potato is soft enough to allow the bamboo shoots to come in quickly, and allow it to cool to room temperature. Put this in the mixer along with the soup to make it puree. Seeing the state in the mixer, it seems better to turn it little by little. Filter this puree with chinoisea and put it in the refrigerator or cool it by floating a bowl on ice water.

As it cools, the potato starch starts to solidify, its concentration increases, and it becomes sticky. In general, cold food is less palatable, so consider it and salt it a little more strongly when frying. If it's too light, it will be a bit dull and boring.

Once it has cooled well, add chilled milk and fresh cream as well. Pour into a soup plate and garnish the chopped shiblet. The breeze is accented with both color and smell. When I look at how to make it, I have a creamy image that contains a lot of milk fat-rich fresh cream and there is a thick image, but because Vichyssoise made by Mr. Shibata keeps butter low, it is perfect for the hot Japanese season It is a light taste. The sweetness of vegetables is also felt, and it seems to stimulate the tired stomach of summer with a slight touch.
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Start your meal slowly with Vichyssoise-an elegant menu that you want to add to your summer fun.