You can find previous articles from ‘Kimono trip by Ranno Hana’ here.
Weaving, weaving, weaving and devouring in the land of longing for tsumugi! Kimono trip by Ranno Hana【Yuuki, ed.】
Dressed in mother’s kimono, to movie spots and starred restaurants ♡Kimono trip by Ranno Hana【Paris, ed.】
Football games and Oktoberfest! Kimono trip by Ranno Hana【Munich, ed.】
Off to Golden district – a neighbourhood for creative souls♪
Golden district (ゴールデン街), located in Shinjuku (新宿), Tokyo, began as a post-war black market and has transformed over the decades into a one-of-a-kind nightlife district where anyone can now enjoy a drink. It exudes a distinctive charm, blending the mysterious ambience of its former days with a new wave of modern bars run by younger owners. Tucked right beside the Shinjuku Ward Office, stepping off the main road into one of its narrow alleyways can feel like entering an entirely different world. Unlike the harsh glare of neon signage, the soft, glowing lights of individual bar signs lend the area a warm yet slightly surreal atmosphere. Squeezing through lanes barely wide enough for one person, you slowly begin to absorb the mood of the Golden district as you make your way towards your chosen spot.
Today’s kimono (着物) theme was ‘Showa Retro (昭和レトロ).’ The long-sleeved piece I chose was a deep navy with autumnal floral motifs—perhaps technically an all-seasons pattern, but the rich colours remind me of autumn leaves, so in my mind it feels very much like an autumn design. It’s a kimono that belonged to my mother, tailored around 40 years ago, and holds special memories. The obi (帯) was selected from my grandmother’s tansu (箪笥, kimono chest). It seemed a bit short for something of hers—perhaps it belonged to my great-grandmother? Our family’s old antique chests are filled with mysterious kimono, each with its own history. To balance the look and keep it from feeling too heavy, I added a crisp white obijime (帯締め, obi cord).
First stop: a spot for meat and music!
First things first—time to eat! We headed to NIKUTO (肉人), a restaurant known for its range of fresh meat dishes.
The ground floor features a counter bar, while the upstairs offers tatami seating—perfect whether you’re visiting solo or in a group. Behind the counter downstairs, the stylish owner, Mr. Sakakibara (榊原), manages everything himself—from prep and cooking to washing up!
Orders from the second floor are placed using an old-fashioned internal phone—charmingly retro, isn’t it? The background music in the restaurant is curated by the owner himself, depending on his mood. On this visit, it started with 80s Western rock and transitioned into 90s Japanese Visual Kei rock. I was joined by Suzuki-(鈴木) san, the editor-in-chief of Waraku (和樂) Web, and our photographer. As a group of rock band enthusiasts, we got pretty excited! Some nights they play more recent music too, so the day’s playlist is part of the fun—and yes, you can make requests!
My haori (羽織, kimono jacket) for the day was a long one purchased from an independent kimono tailor. It was made from vintage fabric—an example of how kimono fashion supports sustainable practices. The pattern was a scattered kikko (亀甲, tortoiseshell) motif, with seasonal flowers inside the hexagons. It’s incredibly versatile and one of my favourites. I often use beaded ties for my haori because they’re so convenient, but since today’s theme was ‘retro,’ I opted for a traditional metan (女短) style tie.
A Local Favorite Where People Naturally Gather – run by a beloved ‘Mama’ hostess
Our second stop was Machuka Bar. ‘Machuka’ means ‘cat’ in Hungarian—and yes, there’s a little kitty on the signboard too! The bar has been run for 20 years by Machiko (麻知子)-san, the ‘mama’ of the place. The name Machuka was inspired by the similarity in sound to her own name and her love of cats. She’s such a well-known figure in Golden district that fellow bar owners often find themselves gathering at her place just to have a chat—she truly is a local legend.
The walls are lined with film posters and flyers, and as soon as customers begin chatting, the conversation inevitably turns to cinema. Machiko-san’s philosophy is, “Everyone’s impressions are different, and that’s what makes them valuable. I want to hear how you felt.” Thanks to this open mindset, everyone ends up speaking freely. I found myself launching into an impassioned monologue without even realising!
Machuka Bar also boasts a wide selection of drinks. One of the must-tries is the Bloody Caesar—a vodka-based cocktail with tomato juice, clam extract, garlic, jalapeño and black pepper. It’s absolutely delicious! It’s always my first drink of the evening (laughs). They also offer a good range of non-alcoholic options, so even those who don’t drink can enjoy themselves here.♡
From the everyday to the extraordinary – when sake meets kimono, the fun multiplies!
What did you think of Golden district, Tokyo’s secret haven for grown-ups? I had an absolute blast, from the time-travel feeling of the Showa era to the fun of coordinating my kimono for the night♪ If you’ve never tried a kimono night out, I highly recommend giving it a go!
Photography by Nakanishi Masaki (中西真基)
This article is translated from https://intojapanwaraku.com/fashion-kimono/260730/
