"Marusho vinegar brewed origin (Marushosu Jojo source)" founded in 1879. In the land of Kumano Sanzan, Wakayama Prefecture, where there is a world heritage site, it has inherited the tradition of traditional brewing by Kumano Sugi Kiso. The temperature is stable all year round in the storehouse, but the craftsmen are constantly working on the environment so that the bacteria can be fermented pleasantly. A "microbe with storage" that creates a mild acidity and a soothing aroma. How has it been built in a storehouse over 100 years old?
A feeling of sour taste, relaxed and delicious. There are many people who are not good at the sharp acidity, but the mellow vinegar that has no horns and has a mellow flavor makes the most of the ingredients of the ingredients, whether it is chirashi sushi or mixed dishes. The vinegar that is fresh and refreshing is born in anything, in the Kumano cedar that has been used since its inception. The fungus in the darkened moss is allowing the vinegar to be fermented gently.
At Nachi Katsuura (Nachi Katsuura) near the southernmost Kii Peninsula World Heritage site, Kumano Kodo, Marumoshi Vinegar has been brewing works for over 100 years. Soy sauce and miso are always dotted here. In order to utilize abundant fishery resources, the consumption amount of vinegar at home was also large, and several brewer's sources lined the eaves. However, with the passing of time, local traders went out of business one after another. Mr. Haruka Kosaka, president of the third generation, also says, "A large wall has stood up many times."
There is a "Maruyoshi Vinegar Brewer". Mr. Haruji Kosaka, president of the third generation, is still active in his 90s and spearheads production
The biggest crisis came about in the 1940s. In the past, a brewing machine that could be done in 8 to 24 hours was developed for brewing, which took about 3 months at most.
Vinegar is made from water, rice and koji. Steam rice and add water and rice bran, and the enzymes of the bran will be saccharified and fermented and converted to sake lees. Add acetic acid bacteria (sake sankin) to sake (vinegar bowl) for vinegar, and wait for the vinegar to grow slowly in the inside of the mallet. That was the mechanism of traditional "stationary fermentation".
Rice, which is the raw material for vinegar, is low pesticide-grown rice that is produced by home-grown rice and contract farmers. We are particular about local rice
However, mass-produced vinegar stirs the sake lees with a propeller or the like to promote fermentation. "We will not mix the contents on the way with vinegar for stationary fermentation. We will leave it to the natural convection by bacteria," said Takao Sugimoto, managing director. Also, if the temperature is low, acetic acid bacteria can not move actively. For this reason, the brewer's bowl is placed in a storehouse with little temperature change, and a soft bowl is wrapped around the bowl, and the craftsmen manage the temperature by removing clothes.
Ax wrapped in a mallet
The most important thing is the 5cm thick, 2m high Kumano cedar tree that has been in the brewing store since its inception. It is said that the vinegar made with a wooden mallet will evaporate as much as 5% during brewing. "I experimented in a new container, but the mallet had a more complex and softer taste. The absence is evidence that the fungus is breathing through the wood grain. I thought it was no good, "said Mr. Kosaka. It has been driven by the enthusiasm to "create delicious vinegar" despite ignoring economic efficiency.
Mr. Kosaka's daily routine confirmed the feel by containing the swallowed water of Nachi pumped in the mouth, and after blowing the conch shell learned from Kumano's master (Shugenja), like a sumo wrestle Soak salt and enter the brewing store. The work is like a clean ritual. Mr. Kosaka has a conviction that "making vinegar is not uncommon".
Craftsmen enter the storehouse after putting their hands on the god shelf located at the entrance of the storehouse. By the Shinto shelf, there are also put the conch and plum salt
"There was a time when rice was not available at all during the war, and there was a time when xylophones were empty. When the production was finally resumed after the war, the bacteria needed for the ripening of vinegar had been killed. It didn't become vinegar. "
The father of the previous generation dared to push hard, saying, "Think on your own". Therefore, when I heard that there is a good storehouse in fermented condition, I went to a branch of Tarai size to share the vinegar generated with acetic acid bacteria (Sakusankin). However, fermentation is not so easy to revive. I went through patience many times, and when I saw the outbreak of my own bacteria on dozens of occasions, I realized the power of nature that exceeds human power and the greatness of the bacteria.
The wells on the premises are from the time of establishment, and the water temperature is 16 ° C throughout the year. Soft and mellow soft water. Water of good quality that experts have suggested to commercialize as mineral water is constantly and constantly joy. And the soft flavor brought by Kumano Sugi Kiso. The constant vinegar has been born only because I'm devoted to analog.
In the factory, the Kumanosan underflow, which is the same water source as the Nachi waterfall, is rising.
Each group is given the name of a former famous wrestler, such as "Taisho" and "Futabayama" in the ink book handed down by Mr. Kosaka. This is also a service to the first grandfather who was teaching sumo wrestling. Kosaka-san told me, "If you give it a name, you'll also get attached, and you won't get it wrong."
Named samurai wrestler
In old-fashioned brewing methods, including ripening, rice vinegar takes about 3 months, and brown rice black vinegar takes about 500 days. The last challenge is when you determine the end of ripening. It is said that the bacteria in the koji ferment at 40 ° C and the fruit starts to give off a ripe smell. Judgment by this smell greatly influences the failure of the product.
Maruzan vinegar brewed vinegar will be known to people overseas, and exported to dozens of countries in the West. “Nachi Kuroko Mesu” has won the Gold Award of Monde Selection, which is considered to be the Olympics of food, for 10 consecutive years. The deep taste of the afterglow continues to open new horizons in the turbulent modern times.
We interviewed here!
◆ Marumasa vinegar brewery original address Wakayama Prefecture Tochi-gun Nachikatsuuracho Tenma 271
Official site 
Wadon web editorial department. My motto is "I'm seriously stupid", and I am having fun with all sorts of dread and fun every day. https://note.mu/warakumagazine
