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4,5月号2026.02.28発売

美の都・京都で出合う うるわし、工藝

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Travel

2026.03.22

Elegantly Innovated to Protect Your Kimono: Barachirashi at “Sushi-dokoro Futaba” in Tokyo [Chirashi Sushi for Early Spring, Part 4]

While Chirashi-zushi (ちらし寿司) may at first glance seem modest compared to Nigiri-zushi, it is in fact full of fascinating secrets. In the fourth instalment of our deep dive into Chirashi-zushi — a celebratory feast reflecting local food culture — we visit ‘Sushi-dokoro Futaba’ (鮨処 二葉). This establishment follows the lineage of a shop in Kagurazaka (神楽坂) that is said to have created the prototype for Tokyo’s unique Barachirashi (ばらちらし). Both its appearance and flavour are truly sophisticated and classy.

‘Sushi-dokoro Futaba’ [Mitaka, Tokyo] Inherits the Barachirashi Born in the Kagurazaka Pleasure District

Among the various types of Chirashi-zushi, Barachirashi has a particularly loyal following. This dish features ingredients that have been prepared in advance (such as curing in vinegar, simmering, or marinating), finely chopped, and arranged beautifully atop vinegared sushi rice. Its charm lies not only in its splendid appearance but also in the way diverse flavours harmoniously meld together in the mouth.

It is said that a specific style of Barachirashi was established by the proprietor of the original ‘Futaba’ (founded in 1931), which was located in Kagurazaka. Since that shop closed about ten years ago, this sibling establishment now carries on its signature flavours.

“Due to the nature of Kagurazaka as a district, many of our customers were Geisha (芸者) or dance instructors. I am told this style was an innovation to ensure they didn’t soil their Kimono. The suggestion to use a Renge (レンゲ; a ceramic spoon) to make it easier to eat was also my uncle’s idea,” says the second-generation proprietor, Matsubara Hirotada.

In Barachirashi, the craftsman’s skill is truly tested by the ability to unify the flavours of many different ingredients into a single, cohesive whole.

The Secret of Its Deliciousness Lies Here!

Left / When serving the sushi rice, pick it up with your fingertips as if plucking it. Handle it as if you are carrying air!
Right / The sweetness of grilled Anago (穴子; conger eel) can be felt throughout the rice, allowing the flavours of the toppings — lightly dipped in Chirashi soy sauce — to truly shine.

The key to this shop’s flavour lies in the foundation of the sushi rice, which is hidden from view in the photographs. A generous amount of grilled Anago flesh is placed atop the gently vinegared rice. The balance between this mild sweetness and the more ‘assertive’ toppings decorating the sushi is exquisite.

A Chirashi-zushi Born in the Kagurazaka Pleasure District to Protect One’s Kimono

‘Barachirashi (Jo, 上), 2,800 yen. The Kazunoko (herring roe) and Ikura (salmon roe) add a wonderful variation in texture. Tokujo (特上) version, which includes fresh Uni (sea urchin), is 3,300 yen. Advance booking is required.

Takeaway Version Here

Right / Takeaway ‘Barachirashi (jo)’, 2,800 yen. As orders can pile up, advance booking is recommended.

Sushi-dokoro Futaba (鮨処 二葉)

Address: 3-29-4 Shimorenjaku, Mitaka-shi, Tokyo
Telephone: 0422-47-2360
Opening Hours: 11:30–14:00, 17:00–20:00
Closed: Mondays and Tuesdays
*Reservation only.

*This article is a reprint from the magazine Waraku (April/May 2025 issue).
*All listed prices include tax.
*Prices and opening hours are current as of January 2026 and are subject to change; please check the official website or other sources in advance.

This article is translated from https://intojapanwaraku.com/travel/291631/

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最新号紹介

4,5月号2026.02.28発売

美の都・京都で出合う うるわし、工藝

※『和樂』2026年4・5月号 美術展カレンダーに誤りがありました。P.224で紹介しました、福岡県・久留米市美術館で開催中の「美の新地平ー石橋財団アーティゾン美術館のいま」の入館料は、正しくは一般1,500円となります。お詫びして訂正いたします。
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