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8,9月号2024.07.01発売

ART & TRIP! この夏は「名画」と「絶景」の旅へ!

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Culture

2024.07.07

The best places for meat kappou cuisine, fu dishes (breadlike pieces of wheat-bran) in Kyoto!

Famous restaurants you’ll want to visit again and again, even if it’s your first time. We have gathered together some of the tastiest spots to enjoy on your trip to Kyoto this autumn. This time we introduce two restaurants in Higashiyama-ku: Niku no takumi Miyoshi (にくの匠 三芳) and Hanbeifu (半兵衛麩).

Niku no takumi Miyoshi

Meat kappou cuisine, the new classic Kyoto cuisine. What makes popular restaurants special?

In Kyoto, there is a form of ‘meat kappou’, which is neither Western food nor barbecued meat, but ‘Japanese food’, with a continuous menu full of beef. If this popularity takes root, it may become part of Kyoto cuisine! The owner of Niku no takumi Miyoshi, Ito tsutomu (伊藤力), is a rare person who entered the world of meat after having a friend who was a meat grader. He is self-taught in cooking, which is why his creative course meals are such a hit.

スクリーンショット 2017-09-22 15.14.28

Left/ Mr Ito preparing the sirloin shabu-shabu. Shabu-shabu appears in the middle of the course. Right: The restaurant opened in 2005. It was originally a salon run by Mr Ito’s mother.

“We are supplied directly from the various producers who grow Omi beef (近江牛) and Kobe beef (神戸牛), and even after 10 years since we opened, I am still amazed that such ingredients are still available. I am now interested in sagari, which arrives fresh. When I fry it in beef fat, it is outstanding. I’m trying to think of even better ways to cook it.”

スクリーンショット 2017-09-22 15.22.53

Left/ An example of an Oshinogi (おしのぎ), steamed rice with autumn truffle, swordtip squid and sirloin. The synergy between the sweetness of the squid and beef is mouth-watering. Right: Omi beef tongue sashimi on kelp, a classic mukozuke dish (向付). This is the taste of the unknown! With salted kelp and ponzu vinegar.

The steaks, which are grilled, are available in four varieties: fillet, special fillet, Omi beef loin and special Kobe beef. Repeat customers can consult with the chef in advance about the quality of the meat… so what kind of special beef is on offer? This is also the secret behind the popularity of the restaurant.

三芳5

Niku no takumi Miyoshi

‘Hanbeifu’

‘Mushi yashinai’ cuisine (むし養い料理) you need to book months in advance

A hidden popular spot in Kyoto, crowded with tourists from all over the world, is located inside Hanbeifu, a long-established fu and yuba (湯葉) specialty shop. The main attraction is the fu and yuba-laden dishes, which are served from 11am and take about an hour to prepare.

スクリーンショット 2017-09-22 15.51.36

Left/ Fuchidaka (縁高) contains nama-fu dengaku (なま麩田楽), cooked nama-fu and vegetables, etc., while the lid dish on the oshiki (折敷) changes according to the season. In autumn and winter, it is warm yaki-fu (やき麩 grilled fu) and simmered tofu skin. Right/ Bowl of mugwort fu (よもぎ麩) with white miso.

In Kyoto dialect, this light meal is called ‘mushiyashinai (むし養い)’ and attracts up to 100 people a day. The event started 30 years ago as a way to introduce the wide selection of fu dishes available at Hanbefu, but it spread by word of mouth and has continued to the present day. Fu is an essential part of the history of Kyoto cuisine. The simmered dishes and soups, which change with the seasons, are also interesting and make you want to visit again and again.

半兵衛麩3

Hanbeifu

*This article is a reprint of the magazine Waraku. Please check the latest information before visiting.
This article is translated from https://intojapanwaraku.com/rock/travel-rock/1674/

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最新号紹介

8,9月号2024.07.01発売

ART & TRIP! この夏は「名画」と「絶景」の旅へ!

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