Culture

2026.05.30

Come and Unwind to the Nostalgia of Comforting Drinks, Old Records, Books, Jazz, and the Occasional Retro Showa Tunes. Bar Tsukuyomi in Jingu Marutamachi, Kyoto

What better way to conclude a trip away, than heading to a bar with exquisite drinks. In Kyoto, we went in search of a place where even a woman travelling alone could relax comfortably, and arrived at a spot where a wonderful encounter with a bartender awaited. We would like to introduce you to Bar Tsukuyomi (Bar 月読).

Jazz and the Occasional Showa Retro Tunes Flowing from the Speakers: Bar Tsukuyomi

The landmark for this shop, located at Kawaramachi Marutamachi (河原町丸太町), is a signboard with a moon motif. Upon opening the heavy wooden door, a spacious area unfolds, with music emanating from a massive ‘Siemens’ wall-mounted speaker. The presence of old records, books, and the warm atmosphere also evokes a sense of nostalgia.

It has been 19 years since Hiraiwa Eiji, who was the final proprietor of the popular jazz café Onriedo (厭離穢土), opened this bar, and four years since it moved to its current location.
“This is a shop where even bar first timers can enjoy themselves. Please feel free pop by casually, just like a café.”

Recommended Drink: La France Sidecar

A representative brandy-based cocktail, the ‘Sidecar’, made with the autumnal flavour of La France pear. Featuring plenty of pear pulp, it looks stunning in an antique glass. La France Sidecar: 1,500 Yen. Seven counter seats and one table.

From the bar food menu: Assorted Chocolates: 1,000 Yen.

The shop’s name is taken from Tsukuyomi no Mikoto (月読命), a deity appearing in Japanese mythology. Right: A large, 100-year-old gramophone is still in use, playing the sounds of SP records.

Cozy Sips in a Comfortable Space: Hiraiwa Eiji

“First timers are most welcome!” says Hiraiwa-san. His own “regular haunt” is the traditional sweet shop Mitsubachi, as he is fond of the dessert Anmitsu. “It contains Kanten (寒天) made from Tengusa (天草 ; agarweed), and it is truly delicious. I also use it as a gift to show my gratitude to those who have helped me,” (Hiraiwa-san).

Bar Tsukuyomi (Bar 月読) Shop Info

Address: 399 Iseyacho, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto-shi
Tel: 090-6062-0621
Opening Hours: 18:00 – 01:00 (Closes at midnight if there are no guests)
Closed: Tuesdays
Note: Payment is cash only
Official Website:
https://bartsukuyomi.wixsite.com/home

*This article is a re-edited reprint from the magazine ‘Waraku‘ (和樂) (October/November 2023 issue).
*All listed prices include tax. Prices and opening hours are subject to change; please check before visiting.

Composition: Kawamura Yuko (川村有布子) / Photography: Ito Makoto (伊藤 信)

This article is translated from https://intojapanwaraku.com/travel/247160/

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