Culture

2025.04.12

The sentimental meaning behind the white shiromuku kimono, worn by the Yujo of Yohiwara

The Yoshiwara Yukaku (吉原遊郭) reigned as an officially sanctioned red-light district during the Edo period. This unique world, where heaven and hell coexisted, gave rise to various cultural traditions and captivated many.

Among them, the Oiran Dochu (花魁道中), in which high-ranking yujo (遊女; women who worked as prostitutes) would parade in elaborate attire accompanied by their attendants, was a hallmark of Yoshiwara. On one particular day, however, they were said to have worn a special kimono.
What kind of kimono was it?

1. A gold kimono
2. A bright red kimono
3. A pure white shiromuku (白無垢)

And the answer is…

Option 3 – the shiromuku!

What is Hassaku?

The shiromuku was only worn during the Oiran Dochu on the 1st of August, a day known as Hassaku (八朔). This date marked the anniversary of Tokugawa Ieyasu (徳川家康)’s arrival in Edo. On this occasion, feudal lords and samurai retainers were required to wear shirokatabira (白帷子; white garments) when paying their respects at the castle. It is believed that yujo of Yoshiwara adopted this custom, donning the shiromuku in imitation of this tradition.

An alternative story behind the Shiromuku and Yujo

There is another theory as to why yujo wore the shiromuku. According to one account, a tayu (太夫; high-ranking yujo) had fallen ill and was bedridden, dressed in a white kimono. However, on the day of Hassaku, her most favoured patron arrived. Determined to meet him, she mustered her strength and joined the dochu, still wearing the same white kimono. Seeing her in this state moved those who witnessed the scene, and from that moment on, the sight of yujo dressed in shiromuku became a Hassaku tradition.

Since she had been unwell, she was likely still in her white sleeping attire, with her hair unkempt. Yet, despite this, people were deeply touched by her sense of duty and loyalty.

‘Seiro e sho nenju gyoji (青楼絵抄年中行事)’ by Jippensha Ikku (十返舎一九), published in Kyowa (享和) 4, National Diet Library Digital Collection

References:
Yoshiwara Yukaku no subete (吉原遊郭のすべて), Futabasha (双葉社)
Nihon Daihyakka Zensho (日本大百科全集), Shogakukan (小学館)
Sekai Daihyakka Jiten (世界大百科事典), Heibonsha (平凡社)

Header Image:
‘Toto sanjurokkei (東都三十六景): Yoshiwara nakanocho (吉原仲之町)’ by Utagawa Hiroshige (歌川広重) II, National Diet Library Digital Collection

This article is translated from https://intojapanwaraku.com/rock/culture-rock/250646/

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幼い頃より舞台芸術に親しみながら育つ。一時勘違いして舞台女優を目指すが、挫折。育児雑誌や外国人向け雑誌、古民家保存雑誌などに参加。能、狂言、文楽、歌舞伎、上方落語をこよなく愛す。ずっと浮世離れしていると言われ続けていて、多分一生直らないと諦めている。
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