“If this many foreigners are visiting Japan, wouldn’t a photo book showcasing tourist spots across the country sell pretty well?”
This was the thought of one individual who, in 1900, published such a book.
Edited by Segawa Mitsuyuki (瀬川光行), Famous Views of Japan (published by Shiden Compilation Office).
The preface explains:
“Come to think of it, there hasn’t really been a collection of photographs showing Japan’s scenic spots. I wanted people abroad to see how beautiful Japan is, so I’ve gathered around 700 lovely photos and added English explanations. Hope you enjoy it!”
A wonderfully forward-thinking concept, indeed.
This time, we’ll be introducing some historical photos from this Famous Views of Japan, held in the digital collection of the National Diet Library.
(Since there are so many, I’ve selected ones featuring people where possible.)
Kyoto
Even today, this is the quintessential ‘Kyoto’ view that most Japanese people would instantly think of – and it was already immensely popular back in the Meiji era. ‘Float a boat on the clear waters of the Ozeki (大堰) River and take in the scenery along both banks – truly a refined pleasure,’ or so the text says. What one does in Arashiyama (嵐山) hasn’t changed much over the years. Incidentally, although the book labels this river the ‘Kamo River (加茂川),’ it is in fact the Katsura River (桂川).
These days, this riverside of the Kamo River (鴨川) is known for couples who curiously sit at evenly spaced intervals – but even back then, seasonal dining platforms would appear in summer. Dressing up and going out to enjoy the evening cool seems to have been a classic Kyoto girl’s pastime.
Matching parasols and kimonos (着物) – they look stunning. The publisher gave the photo this title. At the time, women still didn’t have the right to vote. Even so… ‘common women’? Really?
The explanation attached to the photo states: ‘In Kyoto, when one speaks of an iron bridge, it can only mean the Shijo bridge (四條大橋).’ This suggests that, in 1897, all the other bridges in Kyoto were still wooden. This bridge remained in use until 1911, and in 1913, a new concrete arch bridge was constructed. The current Shijo Bridge dates from 1942.
As someone who lived in Kyoto during my student days, the Miyako Odori (都踊り) is a familiar term. This springtime event is something of a seasonal tradition, and it’s said to have its roots in the mass Ise Ondo (伊勢音頭) dance of Ise Furuichi (伊勢古市), which we’ll introduce later.
Nara
‘The deer here have been called sacred messengers of the gods of Kasuga (春日) since ancient times, and because capturing or harming them has been forbidden, they’ve multiplied year upon year to an astonishing degree.’ The tone of this slightly exasperated-sounding explanation is quite amusing.
There are photos of Kasuga Taisha (春日大社), but few of its paired temple, Kofukuji(興福寺) – perhaps reflecting the anti-Buddhist sentiment of this era. Nowadays, almost all of Nara Park occupies what was once the grounds of Kofukuji.
Osaka
This is the area around where Yoshimoto Kogyo (吉本興業) ’s ‘Namba Grand Kagetsu (なんばグランド花月)’ theatre now stands. Of all the scenes so far, this one feels the most strikingly different from today. The bustling atmosphere we associate with this location had yet to emerge in the 1890s.
Located to the northwest of Osaka Castle, this iron bridge was constructed across the Yodo river (淀川) in 1888. The accompanying text describes it as ‘one of Osaka’s three great bridges, along with the Tenjinbashi (天神橋) and Naniwabashi (浪華橋) bridges.’ This photo appears to have been taken from the site now occupied by the Keihan (京阪) City Mall.
The fact that a retail space is featured in a photo book titled Famous Views of Japan suggests this shop was quite famous and a source of local pride. This is what would later become the Mitsukoshi (三越) Department Store. According to the company’s website, in 1900, the flagship Nihonbashi (日本橋) store in Tokyo eliminated traditional floor seating sales and converted the entire building into a display-based retail space.
Tokyo
‘With those coming to Tokyo from the countryside, not a soul can disembark at Shimbashi (新橋) Station for the first time and not be surprised by the unexpected noise and bustle,’ reads the text, kindly written from a rural visitor’s point of view. Gas lamps can already be seen in the photo.
The caption explains the origin of the name: ‘This area retains the name Ginza (銀座) because it once housed the official coin-minting site of the Tokugawa government.’ The Meiji government encouraged Western-style architecture, and many brick and stone buildings were constructed in Ginza. As a result, the area became popularly known as ‘Brick Town.’
‘To the north lies the distant Yoshiwara yukaku (芳原遊郭), and as this spot sits at the crossroads between Kanda (神田) and Asakusa (浅草), traffic of people and horses flows ceaselessly, like a woven tapestry…’ The photo appears to have been taken facing east, with the park at the photographer’s back. In the far right background is the Ryounkaku (凌雲閣) Tower of Asakusa, which was destroyed in the Great Kanto Earthquake.
Today, work continues to remove the elevated motorway that runs over Nihonbashi. The caption explains: ‘The bridge’s railings once featured ornamental knobs known as giboshi (擬宝珠), and a plaque noted it was constructed in the ninth month of 1658, but it has since been replaced with a wooden structure of hybrid Japanese-Western design, greatly altering its appearance.’ The current stone bridge still in use today was rebuilt in 1911. Shops listed in the area include Mitsui Drapery Store, Shirakiya (白木屋) Drapery Store, Okura (大倉) Bookstore, and Aoki Suzando (青木嵩山堂) – the latter of which published ‘I Am a Cat’, the debut novel by Natsume Soseki (夏目漱石).
Still located in Tokyo’s Kioicho (紀尾井町) area near Sophia University and just east of the Akasaka State Guest House, Shimizudani (清水谷) Park was once described as having ‘an abundant grove of ancient pines.’ Incidentally, the name Kioicho comes from the residences of three feudal lords – Kii (紀伊), Owari (尾張), and Ii (井伊) – which once stood here (according to the book’s explanation).
This is the area around present-day Kanda Ogawamachi (神田小川町) in Chiyoda (千代田) Ward. The road connecting Suidobashi (水道橋) in the west to Manseibashi (万世橋) in the east, via Ochanomizu (御茶ノ水), was referred to as ‘Ogawamachi Street (小川町通り).’ The area is described as being full of life, with frequent performances and market stalls.
Mie (Ise)
The accompanying text states: ‘The dance of Ise Furuichi (伊勢古市) has long been counted among the most famous in the land, and the sound of the Ise Ondo (伊勢音頭) is said to have echoed throughout the country.’ Even today, you can hear it mentioned in many stories told in Kamigata rakugo (上方落語). It’s also said to be the prototype for the Miyako Odori (都をどり) we saw earlier.
It may be expected, but it’s still striking how little the Ise Grand Shrine (伊勢神宮) has changed since the Meiji era—almost nothing at all, in fact. That’s genuinely impressive.
Shizuoka
The Fuji River, which is now sped past by the Shinkansen (新幹線), was back then crossed only by this simple bridge. It looks like even a small rise in the water level could have swept it away. Flooding must have been a constant concern.
‘The beach at Atami (熱海) boasts white sands and clear waters. Even when the southern winds stir waves, they are never high. The sea water is richly blue yet not deep—making it an ideal spot for sea bathing.’ I used to think calling something ‘the strongest’ (saikyo, 最強) was a modern quirk, but here it is in Meiji-era prose: describing a beach as ‘formidable’ (kukkyo, 屈強). Unexpectedly impressive.
Wait—are people seriously pushing this cart up Izu (伊豆) ’s hills? Surely not? But yes, this was a legitimate regular route between Odawara (小田原) and Atami (熱海). The caption explains: ‘Carriages were divided into upper, middle, and lower classes. The lower class had a capacity of six passengers. Upon boarding, a young man would position himself at each side and end of the cart, placing the shaft over their shoulders and, letting out a shout, push it forward.’ What must that have felt like for the passengers? “The journey of approximately 28 kilometres (seven ri, 七里) was completed in under four hours.” Sounds like a pretty intense job!
Aichi
One of Nagoya’s most iconic shrines, Atsuta Jingu (熱田神宮) enshrines ‘Yamato Takeru (日本武尊) at the centre, flanked by Amaterasu (天照大神), Susanoo-no-Mikoto (素戔嗚命), Miyasu-hime-no-Mikoto (宮簀媛命), and Takeinadane-no-Mikoto (建稲種命),’ according to the detailed description. Incidentally, the famed hitsumabushi (ひつまぶし) restaurant “Atsuta Horaiken (あつた蓬莱軒),” located nearby, was founded in 1873, so there’s a decent chance the photographer may have dined there.
Nagoya Castle (名古屋城), tragically destroyed during the Second World War, appears here in a rare pre-war photograph. Magnificent!
Bonus tidbit
This society was founded with the noble aim that ‘regardless of noble or humble birth, rich or poor… women, destined to become wives and later mothers, must not be neglected in their education.’
At the centre sits Her Imperial Highness Princess Chieko (智恵子) of the Kan’in-no-miya (閑院宮) house (daughter of Sanjo Sanetomi, 三条実美), known for her philanthropic work. To her left is Nabeshima Nagako (鍋島榮子), wife of Iwakura Tomoyoshi (岩倉具義, eldest son of Iwakura Tomomi (岩倉具視)). To her right stands Shimoda Utako (下田歌子), known as the “Murasaki Shikibu (紫式部) of the Meiji era.” The woman in the circled portrait is Mori Yasuko (毛利安子), the consort of Mori Motonori (毛利元徳), the last daimyo (大名) of the Choshu (長州) domain. On the far right of the back row is Hatoyama Haruko (鳩山春子), one of the founders of Kyoritsu Women’s University (共立女子大学). All of them were leading figures in the development of women’s education in Japan.
What is ‘Daredemo (anyone) Museum’?
Anyone can create their own virtual museum using public domain artworks. Each staff member of Waraku (和樂) web curates their own museum, exploring the appeal of Japanese arts and crafts from their own unique perspective. The ‘Daredemo Museum’ is distributed not only through web media, but also through various media platforms, such as social networking accounts and audio content, in a way that suits each platform. We explore new ways to enjoy art.
◆‘Daredemo Museum’ Project Launched! Let’s create your own museum with public domain works!
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This article is translated from https://intojapanwaraku.com/museum/206028/
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