Travel

2024.05.04

From rich nature to hot springs. 9 places to visit in Aomori, a place associated with Munakata Shiko

The woodblock print artist Munakata Shiko (棟方志功), who was internationally popular in the Showa period, was a great artist with deep contemplation and kindness in the depths of his unique character. There are many places associated with Munakata in his home prefecture of Aomori, where he was born and raised.

Munakata Shiko loved the rich nature of Hakkoda

Munakata Shiko loved Hakkoda (八甲田) ‘s Sukayu (酸ヶ湯) Hot Springs, where he stayed for about 20 days every year for many years. In particular, he became good friends with Shikauchi Tatsugoro (鹿内辰五郎), the ‘Shikauchi-sennin (鹿内仙人)’ who worked at the hot spring, and deepened their friendship. When they climbed Mount Hakkouda together, Shikauchi played his flute and a large hawk appeared above their heads. “ This is the divine hawk. You will be the greatest in the world”, he told Munakata.
Today, nature trails have been built around the hot spring, and the area is dotted with sights such as Jigoku-numa, where highly acidic hot spring water gushes out, and Manjufukashi (まんじゅうふかし), where the steam from the hot spring warms your bottom. A short distance from the national road is Suiren numa (睡蓮沼), which Munakata said was his favourite place.

Suiren numa

Suiren numa is located near the 1040 m-high Kusamatsu Pass, the highest point on the national road connecting Hakkoda and Lake Towada (十和田湖). Shiko Munakata loved the beautiful view of the Hakkoda mountain range beyond the swamp.

Sukayu onsen ryokan

There is a general ryokan wing and a hot-spring cure wing with rooms for long-term stays. The rooms in the ryokan building where Munakata Shiko often stayed are still in existence. Visitors can take a day trip to the baths and enjoy bathing in the famous Hiba Senninburo (ヒバ千人風呂) and take a rest in the Ontakatakataka Salon (御鷹々々サロン), which is decorated with reproductions of paintings of Munakata’s hawks. The badge of the divine hawk designed by Munakata Shiko costs 1,200 yen, while matches designed by Munakata Shiko, which were reissued to commemorate the 90th anniversary of the establishment of the Sukayu Onsen Ryokan, cost 1,200 yen for a pack of seven.

50 Kokuyurin Suyuuzawa, Arakawa-yama, Arakawa Minami, Aomori-shi, Aomori 030-0197
Tel: 017-738-6400
sukayu.jp

Hakkouda Hotel

Luxury hotel located close to Sukayu Onsen. Many works by Munakata Shiko are displayed in the hotel’s calm, log cabin-like atmosphere.

1-1 Arakawaminami Arakawayama, Aomori-shi, Aomori 030-0198
Tel: 017-728-2000
hakkodahotel.co.jp

Aomori City, where Munakata Shiko was born and raised

Munakata Shiko was born on 5 September 1903 in Aomori, the sixth of 15 siblings. His birthplace, where he ran a blacksmith shop, was located in front of the torii gate of the Utou jinjya (善知鳥神社) in the centre of the city, and Munakata spent every day of his childhood playing on the shrine grounds.
When Munakata started drawing, he frequented Gappo (合浦) park, a nature-rich park facing Aomori Bay, for sketching. The pine forests along the seafront, which would have been thin when Munakata was a boy, have grown and now serve as a splendid windbreak.
After moving to Tokyo at the age of 21, Munakata never lived in Aomori, but he frequently returned home and stayed in Hirosaki (弘前), Hakkoda, Asamushi Onsen (浅虫温泉) and other places in the prefecture, showing that he cherished Aomori’s nature, culture and people all his life.

Utou shrine

Shrine where Munakata Shiko used to play in the precincts as a child and where he held his wedding ceremony with his wife, Chiya (チヤ). It is located in the town centre of Aomori City.

2-7-18, Yasukata, Aomori-shi, Aomori 030-0803
Tel: 017-722-4843
utojinja.sakura.ne.jp

Gappo park

Gappo park is a recreational area for Aomori citizens. To the north, it faces Aomori Bay, a seaside area where a pine forest stands. Munakata is said to have awakened to the beauty of nature here.

Munakata Shiko kinenkan (Memorial Museum)

The museum houses which exhibits the largest number of works by Munakata Shiko in Japan (photo shows summer exhibition); the museum is scheduled to close on 31 March 2024 and the works will be transferred to the Aomori Museum of Art. Original stamps, Fugen Bosatsu (普賢菩薩) and Monju Bosatsu (文殊菩薩) set, 660 yen.

2-1-2 Matsubara, Aomori-shi, Aomori 030-0813
Tel: 017-777-4567
munakatashiko-museum.jp

Asamushi onsen tubaki kan

An inn associated with Munakata Shiko in Asamushi Onsen (浅虫温泉), 30 minutes from Aomori Station by car or train. Many of Munakata’s works are featured in the museum. Guests can enjoy hot spring water and homemade local cuisine.

14, Asamushi Uchino, Aomori, Aomori 039-3501
Tel: 017-752-3341
https://www.810215.com/

Tsugaru craft store

‘Tsugaru craft store (つがる工芸店)’ was founded by Soma Teizo (相馬貞三), who became friends with Munakata Shiko through folk art. It is now taken over by Soma Teizo’s eldest daughter, Aida Miki (會田美喜), and her husband, Aida Hideaki (會田秀明). The wrapping paper that Munakata worked on is still used today.

7-19-50 Sakuragawa, Aomori-shi, Aomori, 030-0945
Tel: 017-743-7009
komakino.jp/tugaru/index.html

The Aomori Museum of Art

The Aomori Museum of Art (県立美術館) is a beautiful modern white building. The museum also has a permanent ‘Munakata Shiko Tenjishitsu (Exhibition Room)’ where Munakata’s works can be viewed (photo: summer exhibition view).

185 Chikano, Yasuda, Aomori 038-0021
Tel: 017-783-3000
aomori-museum.jp

Photography by Shinohara Hiroaki (篠原宏明) Composition by Takahashi Ayako (高橋亜弥子)

This article is translated from https://intojapanwaraku.com/travel/228451/

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