Have you ever heard of Sekigahara Warland (関ヶ原ウォーランド)? Among fans of quirky travel spots, it’s something of a cult favourite.
This theme park recreates the Battle of Sekigahara using life-sized concrete figures! Fans are especially drawn to the chaotic charm: samurai warriors with fierce, soul-piercing stares as they face their foes, and even Takeda Shingen (武田信玄)—who should have been long dead by the time of the battle—appearing absolutely livid on the battlefield.
But Sekigahara Warland isn’t just a novelty destination. Its founder built the park out of a deep passion, moved by a loved one’s dying wish. So off I went, to see it for myself.
‘A place where so many lives were lost must be mourned’—a dying wish sparks the park’s creation
Among Sekigahara Warland enthusiasts, Takeda Shingen, known as one of the most powerful and respected daimyō (feudal lords) of Japan’s Sengoku period, is an iconic presence—you see him as soon as you enter. If you’re thinking, “Hang on, Shingen didn’t even fight at Sekigahara!”, you’re not alone. But take a closer look at the caption next to him.
“No more battles like Sekigahara!”
The scene portrays the ghost of Takeda Shingen rising to stop the battle. Sekigahara Warland isn’t just about glorifying the bravado of warlords—it carries a deeper message, a plea for peace.
“This is Sekigahara, Japan’s most famous battlefield. A place where the hopes of East and West clashed, and countless lives were lost. And yet, there is no temple here for mourning, no museum to properly record the deeds of our nation’s heroes. Build them both—no matter what.” These were the dying words of the founder’s father, and it was in honour of that heartfelt wish that Sekigahara Warland came into being.
The blank stare of the foot soldiers carrying severed heads…
One of the highlights of Sekigahara Warland is the depiction of Tokugawa Ieyasu (徳川家康) inspecting severed heads. This ritual, known as kubijikken (首実検), involved presenting the heads of defeated enemies to the general for identification and confirmation. Here, Ieyasu is shown calmly examining a head placed before him.
Yet when you view Sekigahara Warland through the lens of its pacifist message, the concrete figures seem to tell deeper, more poignant stories. Take this scene, for example:
Foot soldiers carry severed heads to Tokugawa Ieyasu.
Look closely at their faces—the emptiness is palpable. If ever there were a textbook example of a dead-eyed stare, this is it.
Even Honda Tadakatsu (本多忠勝), standing beside Ieyasu during the inspection, has turned his gaze away. It’s as if Asano Shoun (浅野祥雲), the sculptor responsible for the park’s concrete figures, was expressing the deep futility of war through these silent, unmoving forms.
「The Yakushi Nyorai of Sekigahara Warland cries out: “Don’t die—Live!”
Elsewhere in the park, more anti-war sentiments emerge through the sculptures.
Amid the bloody chaos of battle—concrete figures frozen mid-fight—suddenly appears Yakushi Nyorai (薬師如来), the Buddha of healing. His weary, resigned expression resembles that of a middle-aged office worker worn down by corporate power struggles—a quietly touching detail.
The explanation next to this statue includes a striking, heartfelt line:
…The blessings of Yakushi Nyorai are said to be realised in this life, as this moment—not the future—is when help can come.
Among the displays is also a figure of Otani Yoshitsugu (大谷吉継), cornered by betrayal and ultimately forced to commit seppuku (切腹, harakiri) after an attack by Kobayakawa (小早川), who defected from the Western Army.
Otani, known as a loyal friend to Ishida Mitsunari (石田三成), famously joined the losing side of the battle out of duty and honour, choosing to die with pride. But, the message seems clear: no good can come from dying in battle. The living are the ones who may still find blessings in this world. Yakushi Nyorai’s presence appears to urge exactly that: don’t die—live.
Mouth-watering beef dishes served at the attraction’s restaurant
Did you know that Sekigahara Warland is actually operated by a restaurant? The establishment, named Sekigahara Hanaibuki (花伊吹), specialises in beef dishes and serves as the park’s managing body.
One of the standout offerings is the Sekigahara Battle Sukiyaki (すき焼き), which lets diners compare two premium regional beef varieties: Hida (飛騨) beef and Omi (近江) beef. The Hida beef comes with a unique warishita (割り下, sukiyaki sauce) made from beef bone broth—a rare, savoury twist that tastes almost like a rich ramen soup. Absolutely delicious!
Omi beef was selected for its historical pedigree; it’s thought to have been raised even during the Sengoku (戦国) period. With extras like beef nigiri sushi (にぎり寿司) included on the side, the meal is deeply satisfying.
There’s also the meat bowl piled high with slices of roast beef—layered endlessly by the staff. The price is astonishingly reasonable at just ¥2,200! Only ten portions are served each day, so it’s worth entering the restaurant early. Conveniently, Sekigahara Warland allows re-entry throughout the day.
Tender, juicy beef—highly recommended. And here’s a bonus: if you dine at the restaurant, entry to Sekigahara Warland is completely free. It’s well worth enjoying both together.
Over 200 figures… each warlord’s expression tells a poignant story
One of the most moving concrete figures I encountered was this:
A warlord, pierced by the enemy’s blade, frozen in a moment of shock. In that instant, all he had built—his career, his life—was wiped clean. His expression seems to embody the chaos and dramatic shifts in power that took place during the Battle of Sekigahara. Ah…how impermanent all things are …or as they say in japanese, ‘Shogyo mujou (諸行無常)’.
While Sekigahara Warland is beloved among fans of quirky destinations, closer inspection reveals that each of the 200 concrete statues embodies the park’s deeper message: No More Battles of Sekigahara. I urge you to visit and experience it for yourself.
Sekigahara Warland – Visitor Information
Access
1701-6 Sekigahara, Sekigahara-cho, Fuwa-gun, Gifu Prefecture
10 minutes from Sekigahara I.C. on the Meishin Expressway. Turn at the sign under the overpass and drive 300 metres.
https://sekigahara-gourmetgarden.com/warland/
This article is translated from https://intojapanwaraku.com/rock/travel-rock/270234/
